Worn clutch pedal pivot joint hole and clutch master cylinder push rod
as a reason for poor shifting

After several years of trouble-free shifting, I began to find that things weren't working as well they they ought to.
I would attempt to shift, say, from second to third, and I would have to try a few times to get it to shift.
Sometimes I would shift into a gear and it flat out "wouldn't go".
Shifting into reverse would almost alway result in at least some gear-grinding.

I removed the coil bracket from the the master cylinder frame cover, then removed the cover, revealing the brake and clutch MC push rods. 
Here is what the clutch MC push rod looked like.
The top of the clutch pedal pivot joint looked no better.

So here is the reason for the 40-50mm of free play
on my clutch pedal.  The push rod never made it all the way into the MC when I stepped on the clutch  - you know the results.

The clevis pin showed a bit of wear (!)
The clutch master cylinder push rod is held in with a large washer which in turn is held in place by a snap ring.
Given the difficulty involved in detaching the clutch MC from it's frame, because of an inaccessible nut at the bottom, I had hoped I could get the snap ring out with the MC in place.  This was not to be.  I, and my tools, could not contort into the necessary shape.
So then the next best thing would be to remove the clutch MC from it's frame, while keeping it's fluid line attached, and not disturbing the brake MC at all.  I unbolted the frame, then lifted up the back end about 4" and stuck a wooden block under it to keep it in place.  From there I was able to get a wrench to the bottom nut holding in the clutch MC.  Mercifully the piping leading away from the brake MC was not adversly effected by a little twisting!

In this photo the clutch MC is still in place, with it's orange tubing running away from it.
Upon removing the clip, the push rod came out and the piston immediately revealed itself.
Here is the old push rod and the new, with the the rubber
 and ring clip moved over to the new one.
To get the ring clip back in with a minimum of fuss, I compressed the clutch MC push rod all the way, then used some wire to hold it in place.  I also flipped the rubber cover to get it a bit more out of the way.
Then getting the clip on was no problem.
Here is the new clevis pin resting on the clutch pedal pivot point.  A lot of metal sure was ground off of the clutch pedal over the last 30 yeaars!

My plan is to NOT remove the clutch pedal, and to fill the space between the clevis pin and the distorted edge of the hole with a fast-setting two-part epoxy putty.  (Please note that this is not really the best or safest solution - getting a new pedal, or welding the bad one is preferable.   But regardless of all that...)
I wrapped the clevis pin in saran wrap.  Then I was able to use the in-place pin as a form to pack epoxy putty around, when building up the pedal.
Here's the stuff.  It hardens in 5 minutes or less, so plan ahead!  $5 or so at home depot in the plumbing dept.  Just slice off a bit and knead to activate.
Here is the putty packed around the clevis pin, filling the distorted area, and built up a bit beyond it
After ten minutes or so, I pulled out the clevis pin and filed down the excess putty
Here are the parts in place.

Things are working much better now. The free play on the clutch pedal has been reduced to a 1/8" or less, and shifting to all gears is fine.

I have since purchased a good clutch pedal from a listmember.  Though my fix seems to be holding up well, and has taken the car about 300 miles as of this writing, there's no guarantee that the putty will hold together forever.

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